Pet odour is a padding problem, not a carpet problem

A dog or cat accident soaks through the carpet in seconds and spreads sideways underneath it. What's left on the surface is a fraction of what's actually there — the stain you can see is often a quarter the size of the deposit below. That's why the smell comes back a week after a surface clean, and why it gets worse on humid days: the crystals reactivate as they take on moisture, and Miami supplies plenty.

We find it before we treat it

A UV lamp with the lights off shows every deposit, including the ones you didn't know about and the ones a previous owner's pet left. There's no point guessing. Once we know the map, we can tell you honestly whether this is a treat-it job or a replace-the-padding job.

Enzymes, not perfume

Urine odour comes from bacteria feeding on the residue. An enzyme treatment digests that residue so there's nothing left to feed on — that's a real fix. Deodorisers and "odour neutralisers" sold in stores mask it for a few days and then you're back where you started, usually with an added smell you now also dislike.

For a saturated area, treatment means flooding the spot with enzyme so it reaches everywhere the urine reached, letting it dwell, then extracting. Doing this properly takes longer than a general carpet clean, and it's priced separately for that reason.

When we'll tell you to replace the padding

If the same spot has been used repeatedly over months, or the subfloor is wood and has taken it up, treatment gets you most of the way but not all. In that case the honest answer is to lift the carpet, replace the padding section, seal the subfloor, and re-lay. We'd rather tell you that up front than sell you three treatments that each get you 80% of the way.